Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Seattle Churches - First Hill

First Hill is appropriately named. It rose above the small shelf of land along Elliott Bay (since augmented with a significant amount of fill into the original bay) where Seattle began in the 1850's. The hill has seen a lot of phases and changes since then. This walk highlights the religious institutions - including the Roman Catholic Seattle University - that cover the northern part of First Hill. The 2.8 mile route has lots of ups and downs, but the payoff comes in the form of panoramic views of downtown Seattle and Elliott Bay to the west.




Our walk begins at the corner of 8th Avenue and James Street. Proceed north on 8th Avenue. To the left is the Trinity Episcopal Parish. The Gothic Revival building was constructed in 1892, replaced a wooden predecessor which burned in the Great Seattle Fire of 1889. The interior burned again in 1902, but the exterior was retained and augmented. More details of the building, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, can be found here. The church is entered through red doors, an Episcopal Church tradition. The parish has remained in the Episcopal mainstream during the various controversies which roiled the national church during the 2000's, and welcomes all Christians to its altar. It's space is also used for a lot of classical music concerts.

After one block on 8th Avenue turn left onto Cherry Street. Go underneath noisy Interstate 5 and then turn right onto 5th Avenue. Go two blocks north on 5th. On the left, at the corner of 5th and Marion, is the former First United Methodist Church. This Beaux Arts style building was opened in 1910. When the Methodists moved to a smaller building to the north in 2001 the building was the subject of a prolonged battle over historic preservation, which ended with the church being spared and "air rights" above going toward permitting of a large office tower right next to it, which has yet to be built. Meanwhile, the building served for a few years as a concert hall before being purchased by the Mars Hill Church, a growing non-denominational congregation, and opening in early 2013. Less than two years later the church closed its doors at this location, and at the end of 2014 dissolved as a result of massive controversy surrounding its founder, Mark Driscoll. The beautiful old church building has a big "for sale" sign on its front, and its future is uncertain once again.

Continue north on Fifth Avenue. At the intersection of Fifth and Madison, to the left, is the striking Seattle Public Library, opened in 2004.


At Spring Street turn right and go east for three blocks, crossing Interstate 5 again. At the corner of Spring and 7th Avenue, to the right, is Seattle's First Presbyterian Church, a "mainstream" Protestant congregation. The current building was constructed in 1962, replacing its 1907 predecessor. The architecture is typical of "modern" church designs of that era. The church's original founder in the 19th century was Dr. George Whitworth, a Washington State pioneer who also founded Whitworth College, originally in Tacoma and now in Spokane.


At 8th Avenue turn left and proceed one block to Seneca Street. At the corner of 8th and Seneca, to the left, is Town Hall Seattle. While the building has served as a public meeting hall and music venue since 1999, as you might guess it is featured on this walk because it used to be a church. The Roman Revival structure was finished in 1922 as the home of the Fourth Church of Christ Scientist, Seattle. The story of the Christian Science church, founded by Mary Baker Eddy and most known for its belief in faith healing instead of medicine, is well-known. Christian Science has suffered major declines in national membership, and many of its very grand edifices have been adapted to new uses around the nation.

At Seneca Street turn left and go back over the I-5 freeway to Sixth Avenue. At Sixth and Seneca is the Plymouth Church, a United Church of Christ (UCC) congregation. As with most UCC congregations, the congregation welcomes all people to its services and events. The UCC is the descendant of the congregational churches of early American New England Puritanism, though it's hard to imagine the Massachusetts Puritans of the 17th century agreeing with the theological positions of the church today. But that's the point of congregational churches - they are mostly autonomous from each other and free to adopt positions on theology, liturgy, and most other church functions that fit the needs of the congregation. The 1910 church building at this location was damaged in the 1965 Olympia Earthquake, and this modern building replaced it.

After viewing Plymouth Church turn around and face the I-5 freeway. To your left will be a trail veering away from Seneca and into Seattle's Freeway Park. The park is built on a massive platform over Interstate 5, and includes features such as this fountain, visible soon after you enter the park. The park opened in 1976. Take the path that goes to the left around the fountain and then curves to the left.

This path leads eventually to the upper entrance of the Washington State Convention Center, a massive facility with its main entrance down below on Pike Street.


At the doors to the convention center entrance turn right to continue through Freeway Park. You will soon come to this whimsical sculpture, which is called the Seattle George Monument, created by noted Seattle public artist Buster Simpson. A weathervane at the top portrays profiles of George Washington and Chief Seattle.


Right beyond the Seattle George Monument, you will see this stairway plunging down and out of Freeway Park. Proceed down the stairway.


At the bottom of the stairway turn left onto 9th Avenue, and after a block you will see this set of long stairs back up the hill to the right. Take the stairway and trudge back up.


At the top of the stairway you will find yourself at the corner of Union and Terry Streets. Walk straight ahead on Union Street - the street veers slightly to the right at Minor Avenue. After three blocks you will see this Mission Revival building at the corner of Union and Summit. It is the Summit School, a former Seattle public school built in 1905, and now home to the private Northwest School. The building is on the National Register of Historic Places. The best façade of this building is actually down Summit Street, to the left.


At Harvard Avenue turn right. Go through a complicated intersection with Seneca Street and continue on Harvard. On your right will be Seattle's First Baptist Church. This monumental Gothic revival structure was completed in 1912. First Baptist is definitely a part of America's "liberal" Baptist tradition - it welcomes all potential parishioners regardless of, among other things, their sexual orientation, and is also proud of its history as a "peace" church.

At Madison Street turn left, and you will be soon entering the campus of Seattle University, a Roman Catholic school administered by the Jesuits. The first campus building on view is the administration building on the right, with a distinctive bell tower. The building includes a small chapel.


After passing the administration building you will see a pedestrian entrance onto the campus to the right. Take the entrance, and then quickly take the campus driveway to the left, which skirts the Union Green. At the east end of the green space take a right. On your left is the Chapel of St. Ignatius. This innovative worship space, with its striking modern design, was dedicated in 1997.

The chapel is open during most daylight hours, so go ahead and respectfully view the interior spaces as well, which also exemplify the striking modern design. The lawn area, with a single row of trees to the south of the Chapel, is known as the "Thinking Field," and is part of the overall design concept for the chapel.


Continue to the south end of the campus green and then past the Albers School of Business, then turn right. Continue on the campus roadway past the Quad, then turn left. In the middle of the Quad is this striking fountain, designed by famous artist George Tsutakawa. The plaza and the fountain date from the late 1980's. For sports fans, Seattle University is best known for the college career of this famous NBA player.

Continue past the quad, and then another block along the campus driveway. Turn right after you pass this structure which is the Arrupe Jesuit House. This building serves as home to many of the Jesuit priests that work on campus. It contains 16 bedrooms and various offices.


Continue on the campus driveway to the intersection of Broadway and Cherry Street. Continue straight on Cherry and then turn right onto Minor Avenue. To your right is the massive Swedish Medical Center complex, located here since 1912 (though obviously not in these buildings). The Swedish Hospital complex is one of three on First Hill, which is sometimes known as "Pill Hill."

Continue on Minor Avenue to Marion Street, then turn left. After two blocks, at the corner of Terry Avenue and Marion, to the right is the Chancery Building, so named because it was the administrative headquarters for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Seattle. The administration has moved across the street and this building is now the Archdiocese youth and young adult center.

Turn left on Terry Avenue. On your left is O'Dea High School, an all-male Roman Catholic institution with about 400 students. It has been on this site since 1923, and is named for an early 20th century archbishop.


On your right is the imposing St. James Cathedral, spiritual home of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Seattle. Completed in 1907, the cathedral was originally graced with a large dome. However it collapsed under a heavy snowfall in 1916, and was not replaced.


Continue one block on Terry to Columbia Street, then turn right. If you were to continue on Terry you would come to the Frye Art Museum, in a distinctive modern structure. After one block on Columbia turn left onto Ninth Avenue. At the corner of 9th and Columbia is Skyline at First Hill, a luxurious new (opened in 2009) retirement community owned and managed by Presbyterian Retirement Communities Northwest, a non-profit organization affiliated with Seattle's Presbyterian churches.


Proceed two blocks on Ninth Avenue to James Street, enjoying (especially on a sunny day) the panoramic views downhill to the west of downtown Seattle and Elliott Bay. Turn right on James Street, and after one block you will be back to the starting point of this walk.

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