Lake Oswego - First Addition and Tryon Creek

This walk combines the city and the wilderness. Much of the walk goes through Lake Oswego's First Addition neighborhood, a grid of streets where many modest homes have been either upgraded or replaced with attractive newer homes, most of which remain in scale with the neighborhood. The rest of the walk rambles along the Iron Mountain trail portion of Tryon Creek State Park, where an area logged and burned in the late 19th century has regrown into a peaceful forest. The walk is 3.6 miles long, and it has some ups and downs along its route.

The walk starts as Christ Church Episcopal Parish at the corner of 10th Street and Chandler Road in Lake Oswego. The church has been here since the 1940's and is the second largest Episcopal congregation in Oregon (first is Trinity Cathedral in Northwest Portland).

From the Chandler Road frontage of the church proceed east and then turn left onto 10th Street. On your left is the Oswego Heritage House. This stately landmark at the head of "A" Avenue was constructed in 1920 to serve as the real estate office for the sale of residential lots in and around Oswego Lake. From 1941 to the 1980s it served as a residence and doctor's office. In 1999 it was purchased by the Oswego Heritage Council and restored to its current appearance.

Continue along 10th Street across busy "A" Avenue to "B" Avenue, where you will turn right. On your right, between the sidewalk and the pavement, is an example of a "green streets" landscape strip to collect and absorb stormwater instead of letting it run off and pollute local streams and rivers. "B" Avenue is a typical street in Lake Oswego's First Addition neighborhood, which you are now entering.

Continue on "B" Avenue three blocks to 7th Street, then turn right. 20 years ago the First Addition was one of Lake Oswego's less popular neighborhoods, but its proximity to downtown and its walkable grid of streets have led to a great resurgence in desirability. Walk one block on 7th Street to "A" Avenue. Before you reach the end of the block you will see this house on your right. Until the late 1990's it was located adjacent to Christ Church Episcopal Parish, but was moved to this site when the Church built a new parish hall. It is bordered on both sides by newer, larger houses that were built since its relocation to this site.

At the intersection of 7th Street and "A" Avenue you will see Our Lady of the Lake Catholic Church, another long-time Lake Oswego religious institution. The church's school for Kindergarten through 8th grade is adjacent to the sanctuary. The parish has had a presence in Lake Oswego since 1890, and you will be going by its original home at 1st Street and "E" Avenue later on the route of this walk. The current building on this site was finished in 1956.

At "A" Avenue turn left and head down the street. At 6th and "A" is Kyra's Bake Shop. Started just a few years ago, in 2010-2012 the shop finished first once and second twice in the Food Network's Cupcake Wars. And it won with an entirely gluten-free product, which is the shop specialty. Kyra's story can be found here.

Continue on "A" Avenue another block to 5th Street, where you will turn left. On the corner, in front of a Safeway parking lot, is the Lake Oswego Holiday Tree, lit up every year at Christmas time. The renaming of this tree, formerly known as the "Lake Oswego Christmas Tree," happened 15 years ago, but still sparks occasional controversy and angry letters to the local newspaper over the alleged "War on Christmas" the renaming supposedly represents. Continue on Fifth Street one block to "B" Avenue, then turn right.

Proceed three blocks on "B" Avenue to 2nd Street, then turn left. The next block on 2nd features two large new developments on either side of the street. To the left is a development of condominiums with ground floor "live-work" small commercial spaces associated with some of the residences above. To the right is a four-story residential development of luxury condominiums. Expect to see several more such developments in the downtown Lake Oswego area in the near future.

Continue on 2nd Street for another two blocks to "E" Avenue, then turn right. Go one block on "E" Avenue, then turn right again onto First Street. At the corner is the original 1890 Lake Oswego Roman Catholic church, converted in the 1990s into a single-family residence. It was recently for sale for almost $900,000.

After one block on First Street turn left on "D" Avenue and head one long block down the hill to State Street. On the way you will have a great view of the Willamette River and the Lake Oswego Railroad Bridge. Built in 1910, the bridge serves a couple of freight trains each day. Attempts to get the railroad to agree to a bicycle and pedestrian crossing on this bridge between Lake Oswego and Milwaukie have come to nought.

At State Street turn left and head north. After crossing "E" Avenue you will get to the intersection of State and Terwilliger Parkway. Follow the trail that heads up the left side of Terwilliger. You are now entering Tryon Creek State Park. The trail parallels Terwilliger all the way north to Lewis and Clark Law School, but is far enough from the road that you will hear just a bit of traffic noise. The paved pathway is shared with bicycles, so keep your eyes open, especially looking for speeding bicycles heading in the opposite direction down the hill.

After almost a mile of the paved trail you will see this trail junction to the left with the Iron Mountain Trail. Take the Iron Mountain Trail, and you will soon leave all traces of traffic noise and all potential bicycle conflicts behind. The Iron Mountain Trail traverses Tryon Creek State Park, a 635 acre oasis of nature between Portland and Lake Oswego. After about 1/4 mile you will see an explanatory sign and a mound to the right in the forest. This is the site of old charcoal pit, used in the late 19th century to produce charcoal for the Oregon Iron Company's smelter to the south in what is now Lake Oswego. It's hard to imagine now, but by the time the charcoal makers had finished their work by 1900 this area was a clear-cut wasteland of charred stumps.

Continue on the Iron Mountain Trail. You will soon get to the Iron Mountain bridge, which crosses Tryon Creek. Hikers are advised by signage to stay on the pathway, so that natural vegetation elsewhere can flourish. Tyron Creek usually has water in it, which may come from springs but is also at least partially constituted of urban runoff from surrounding developed areas.

After crossing Tryon Creek you will see, every couple hundred feet, a sewer manhole cover paralleling the trail. Underneath the trail from Tryon Creek to the developed area to the west is a City of Lake Oswego sewer line. It is a clue that this area was not originally intended to be preserved as a nature park. In addition, Iron Mountain Boulevard stubs into the park both at the west end and the east end of this trail. Along with the sewer line, it is evidence that this area could have at one point been developed with a large residential subdivision, and Iron Mountain Boulevard would have traversed the route of this pathway. And in fact the route of this trail approximates the original logging road used by the Oregon Iron Company's charcoal production workers.

Continuing along the trail you will cross another bridge, labeled the "Stone Bridge" on maps, although the bridge appears to be constructed entirely of wood. Soon you will come to a nice bench along the trail, which is dedicated to Pamela Claire Blake. Ms. Blake apparently helped lead the successful efforts to preserve this part of the park.

As you near the edge of Tryon Creek Park you will start so see houses hanging over a slope edge to the right.

Eventually you will exit the park onto Andrews Road. Turn right and go a short distance to Iron Mountain Boulevard, then turn left. Follow the curve of Iron Mountain until it intersects Country Club Road in a very wide, oblique intersection. Cross the intersection and continue on Iron Mountain - the intersection is an all-way stop, so the cars should stop for you. Follow Iron Mountain south to its intersection with Chandler Road, then turn left and return to your starting point at Christ Church.

Albany - Downtown, Riverfront, and Hackleman District

Albany is a Willamette Valley city that doesn't get the attention received by Corvallis and Eugene, both university towns to the south, and Salem, the state capital to the north. But this Willamette River city has a long proud history, and it is home to over 51,000 residents. This 2.7 mile walk on flat terrain goes along the city's riverfront, through its old commercial downtown, and passes by several other historic structures and sights. At this site you can download a more comprehensive guide to the historic sites of Albany.

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The walk begins at the corner of 4th Avenue and Lyon Street, which is the site of the monumental Albany Armory building. Constructed in 1910, the building served as a National Guard armory until 1974. It now houses mainly government offices.

From the armory turn east, cross busy Lyon Street, and go forward two blocks on 4th Avenue to Montgomery Street. On the corner of Montgomery and 4th, to the left, is the Goltra house. This 1893 Italianate-style home was constructed for William Goltra, who originally walked the Oregon trail to the Willamette Valley in 1852.

Turn left on Montgomery Street and go one block to Third Avenue, where you will turn right. On the left corner of Montgomery and Third is St. Paul's Methodist Episcopal Church South, built in 1875. The "South" in the name speaks to the fact that it was built for a congregation with Confederate sympathies during the recently concluded Civil War. Albany was apparently a town closely divided by partisan sympathies in the 19th century, with the Democrat-Southern settlers moving to this area and the Republican-Northern settlers moving to another area to the west of here.

After one block on Third turn right onto Railroad Avenue. To your left is the original Albany High school, built in 1909. It is now home to a large non-denominational church and Christian school.

After one block on Railroad turn left onto Fourth Avenue. On the right, across from the old high school, is this 1895 home built in the Eastlake architectural style, a subset of the more encompassing Queen Anne style popular at the time.

After one block on Fourth, turn right onto Jackson Avenue. At the southwest corner of 5th and Jackson is the house built by Abram Hackleman, son of Abner Hackleman, the Iowa farmer who made a donation land claim for what became Albany in 1845 . This section of Albany is known as the Hackleman District. Turn left onto Fifth Avenue and proceed two blocks. On the right, pictured here, is the Parker House, a Gothic revival style home built in 1875. Moses Parker came from Ohio to Albany in 1852.

Right beyond the Parker House you will cross the Thurston Canal. Now a pathetic little ditch after it was filled in the 1970's, this used to be a full-fledged waterway, powering turbines in mills and factories along its path between the larger Santiam-Albany canal to the south and the Willamette River to the north. It was constructed by Chinese laborers and finished in 1873. More recent attempts to revive the canal as a recreational resource have apparently come to nought.

The Thurston Canal lies in the right of way of Thurston Street, which is a "paper" street. Turn left and walk along the canal for one block to Fourth Avenue, then turn right. After one block on Fourth you will cross the Willamette & Pacific rail line, formerly a Southern Pacific branch line connecting the main line in Albany with Corvallis to the southwest. This line is a remnant of a grand scheme to build a transcontinental railroad with its western terminal on Yaquina Bay near Newport. Its promoter was one T. Edenton Hogg, a former Confederate navy man who sounds like a classic 19th century railroad promoter - half visionary and half swindler.

Continue another block on Fourth Avenue to Madison Street. On the left is Madison School, originally constructed in the 1890's. It now serves as the headquarters of the Linn-Benton-Lincoln Educational School District, which provides special education needs and other support services to public schools in Albany, Corvallis, and smaller nearby communities.

Continue on Fourth Avenue another two blocks to Main Street. Straight ahead is the Cumberland Presbyterian Church building. This Queen-Anne Style church was built in 1892. This neglected-looking building has been vacant for many years, and is currently owned by the City of Albany. It's ultimate fate remains uncertain.

Turn left on Main Street and proceed north all the way to the Willamette River. On the way you will go around a new roundabout at Third and Main. Next will be another set of railroad tracks, these ones belonging to the Burlington Santa Fe railway but originally built as the Oregon Electric Railway between Portland and Eugene. Eventually you will reach this entrance to the Dave Clark Riverfront Trail. Turn left and begin your walk along the Willamette River.

The trail provides, on your right, the scenery of the river. The time of commercial river traffic, which fueled Albany's initial growth, has long receded into history. On your left is a mixture of park land and new development activity. After a while you will pass under this railroad bridge, built in 1921. It replaced the 1887 bridge constructed as part of the ill-fated Oregon Pacific railway scheme discussed earlier along this walk.

Continuing along the waterfront, this attractive building on your left is an example of the new development that is occurring along Albany's waterfront. It is the Wheelhouse Center, with an event venue and several floors of office space above.

Continuing along the waterfront, next you will cross under the two highway bridges, which connect the main section of Albany with a smaller part of the city west of the river, and then on to Corvallis. The newer one was constructed in 1973, and the older one was built in 1925. Its architect was noted Oregon bridge designer Conde McCullough, whose more famous designs are found on Highway 101 along the Oregon coast.

Continue along the waterfront trail. Soon you will come to this public boat launch. While the commercial traffic that plied the Willamette in the 19th century is no more, pleasure craft still use the waterway.

Follow the riverfront trail as it turns to the left. There is a nice area for sitting and picnicking by the riverbank. You are now walking at the mouth of the Calapooia River, a major tributary of the Willamette. It runs 72 miles from the Cascades and drains 365 square miles. Fish habitat along the Calapooia has recently been improved with the removal of several small dams upstream constructed in the 19th century in association with lumber milling activities.

The riverfront trail ends at First Avenue and Calapooia Street. Turn left onto First Avenue and head into Albany's historic downtown. First Avenue is lined with historic structures built in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The downtown has been restored by city and property owner revitalization efforts.

After three blocks on First Avenue the historic Globe Theater is located on the left, at the corner of First and Broadalbin. The 1914 building is now occupied by the Fusion Faith Center, which uses the theater and the rest of the building for its religious activities.

Along this part of First Avenue to the right is the Flinn Block. This building has been here since 1887, and is a great example of the Second Empire architectural style of the period. The "Second Empire" itself refers to the regime of Napoleon III, who ruled France as its Emperor in the style of more notable ancestor from 1851 to 1870, until ignobly defeated by the Germans and forced to abdicate.

Continue on First Avenue another block to Lyon Street, where you will turn right. On the corner of Second and Lyon is the Albany Regional Museum. This ornate Italianate-style building was originally constructed in 1887 and located a block away on First Avenue. It was moved to this site in 1912. Continue two more blocks on Lyon Street to Fourth Avenue, where you will reach the Armory Building and the starting point of the walk.

Seattle Religious Institutions - Capitol Hill

Capitol Hill is an old and very interesting Seattle neighborhood, located on the heights above downtown Seattle, although perhaps it wasn't originally "above" downtown before the amazing (by today's environmental standards) Denny Regrade was perpetrated on land between Capitol Hill and Puget Sound in the early 20th century. Capitol Hill was originally named in 1901 by a real estate developer who wanted the state capitol to move to Seattle from Olympia. At one point known locally as "Catholic Hill," it has a diverse religious history epitomized by this tour of religious structures in the southern portion of the neighborhood. The walk is 2.7 miles and has a lot of terrain changes.

The walk starts at the intersection of Broadway and Howell At this time you will need to find nearby available street parking to start the walk here, but soon this location will be on the south edge of the Capitol Hill Subway Station, part of an extension of Seattle's light rail line north from downtown to the University of Washington. The tracks visible in the picture will be the route for another new rail line to this location, the Seattle First Hill Streetcar, set to open later this year.

From the intersection of Broadway and Howell proceed east one block to Nagle Street, and then enter Cal Anderson Park, Continue straight across the park. Formerly Lincoln Park, it was renamed in honor of Washington State's first openly gay state legislator. There is an interesting fountain that you will pass on your left.

After crossing Cal Anderson Park you will reach 11th Avenue, where you will cross the street and turn right. On the corner of 11th and Howell is the German United Church of Christ, in this location since 1909. It is the last church in the Pacific Northwest to conduct its services in the German language. The building is, in the architecturally Spartan mode of congregational churches generally.

Continuing south on 11th Avenue, right beyond the German Congregational Church is the Central Lutheran Church parish house, providing extra facilities for the Central Lutheran parish located one building beyond on 11th. Of note is the banner, which refers to a successful campaign in the City of Seattle to raise the minimum wage to $15. It is a sign of the social and moral priorities of the Central Lutheran congregation.

At the corner of 11th and Olive, to the left, is the Central Lutheran Church, clearly from its website one of the more "liberal" Lutheran congregations. The congregation emphasizes issues of social justice and inclusivity in its religious program. While the congregation dates from 1890, this beautiful brick building was constructed in 1932.

At Central Lutheran turn left onto Olive Street. Go two blocks to 13th Avenue, then turn left. On the right side of the street is St. Nicholas Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox congregation. The congregation was founded in 1932 by Russian emigres escaping, as the church's website puts it, "the scourge of Bolshevism." They were also escaping from the established Russian Orthodox church in Seattle, St. Spiridon, for reasons which have been obscured by the passing decades. The cathedral, built in 1937, is dedicated to St. Nicholas of Myra, the religious inspiration for today's thoroughly secular Santa Claus. The building is also dedicated to the "martyred Tsar Nicholas II, his Royal Family and all the Russian soldiers and people who died defending their faith, tsar and country." (from the Cathedral's website) The onion domes are typical of Russian Orthodox churches in Russia and around the world. 

After one block on 13th turn right onto Howell Street. On the left, at the corner of 13th and Howell, is the Assumption Greek Church. This Greek Orthodox congregation is part of a different national church from the Russian Orthodox down the block, but share the same Eastern Orthodox theology, which is well-summarized here. This congregation split from the older St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox church, located several miles to the north, in 1939. This particular building's history is unclear, but it is obviously much more modern than its Russian Orthodox neighbor St. Nicholas.

Continue three blocks east on Howell Street, then turn left onto 16th Avenue. At the corner of Howell and 16th is a small city park. Beyond the park, on the left, is the monumental 1909 First Church of Christ, Scientist, Seattle. The controversial church, founded by Mary Baker Eddy and best known for its belief in faith-healing, was a booming and well-funded organization in the early 20th century. However the number of congregations have declined by almost half in the U.S. in the past half-century, and this building was sold to a housing developer in 2006. It is now a condominium development titled "The Sanctuary." After some problems related to the Great Recession, the 12 condominiums are apparently sold and occupied.

Continue on 16th Avenue another block to John Street. On the left is the Group Health Hospital Campus, while on the right is the former Capitol Hill United Methodist Church building, constructed in 1906. In 1991 the Methodists vacated the building, and its fate was uncertain. However instead of being torn down it has been repurposed as a pretty cool office building for Catalysis, a "digital marketing" firm working with Seattle's (and the world's) tech businesses.

Turn right from 16th onto John Street. Across the street from Catalysis is a striking apartment building, the Anhalt Apartments. This English Tudor style building was designed and built by noted Seattle residential builder Frederick Anhalt. After 40 years in service as offices for the hospital across the street, it was repurposed as an apartment building again in 2009.

After one block on John Street turn right on 17th Avenue, and then after one block on 17th turn left onto Denny Way. After one block on Denny turn right onto 18th Avenue. On the left is this large old mansion which now serves as the headquarters of Save Seattle, a ministry of the Seattle Union Gospel Mission. The program offers year-long missions for young adults to serve the needy in the Seattle area and also enjoy life in the Pacific Northwest.

After one block on 18th turn left onto Howell, and then after one block turn right onto 19th Avenue. Once you cross busy Madison Street look up to see that 19th Avenue is also Rev. Dr. S. McKinney Avenue. Samuel McKinney was the pastor of the Mt. Zion Baptist Church for 40 years and was a major leader of the African-American community in Seattle.

Continue on 19th Street and on your left is the Rev. McKinney's church, Mt. Zion Baptist. It is the oldest and largest African-American congregation in the State of Washington. It has been located on this site since 1920, although the building underwent a major "African-style" redesign in the 1970's. The "black churches" of the United States have a long tradition of serving the spiritual needs of African-Americans, at first by necessity, due to segregation as strong in Christian denominations as it was in the rest of American society, but now by tradition and perhaps choice.

Continue on 19th Avenue. To the right is Peace for the Streets, This organization ministers to homeless youth in the Seattle area. While the group's website doesn't have any religious messages other sources indicate that it is in some sort of partnership with Mt. Zion Baptist Church across the street. Under any auspices, it appears to be a worthy organization with a worthy mission.

After two blocks on 19th Avenue you will see a stairway heading up a short hill to the right. Take the stairway and once at the top continue forward. You will be on Pike Street. Continue for three blocks, passing a playground and school on the left, and at the corner of 16th and Pike is Temple de Hirsch Sinai. This large established congregation serves Seattle's reform Judaism community - the most "liberal" of the three main strands of the Jewish faith in the U.S. The large temple facility, taking up an entire city block, was completed in 1960. As the result of a merger with a Bellevue congregation in 1971 the congregation has a second temple in that city.

Continue on Pike Street to Madison Street, which cuts diagonally across the street grid in this area. Veer slightly left on Madison to the stop light at 14th Avenue, which you will use to cross Madison. Then cross Pike to the north side of the street. Halfway up the block is another long-time (since 1886) Seattle African-American congregation, the First AME Church. The African Methodist Church in the United States was founded in 1816, by Methodists alienated by segregation and discrimination they suffered at the hands of established Methodist congregations in the Northeast. The building the congregation occupies was constructed in 1912.

Walk back to Pike Street and turn right. At the corner of 13th and Pike is the Elysian Brewing Company. Founded at this location in 1995, beer production now happens south of downtown Seattle. But you can duck in here and taste the brews, either now or by returning at the end of the walk.

Pike Street has some interesting sights as you continue west. This colorful mural on the left is indecipherable unless you happen to know that Closed Knuckle Jaw is a band, and "The Grizzled Mighty" is one of their albums.

Continue along bustling Pike Street to Summit Avenue. On the right, at the corner of Summit and Pike, is the Summit(on E. Pike), a meeting hall operated by the adjacent First Covenant Church. While the nondescript building is open for rental to any private party, it also hosts the Breakfast Club, a ministry of the church that provides meals for homeless and low-income Seattle residents.

Continuing on Pike Street, on the right side of the street at Bellevue Avenue is the First Covenant Church. The church building was consecrated as the Swedish Tabernacle in 1909. The congregation began in 1889 as the Swedish Christian Mission Church, not changing its name until the mid-20th century, by which time the Swedish character of the congregation had become diluted. The congregation belongs to the national Evangelical Covenant Church, formed in 1885 with roots in the Pietist movement that started in the 18th century as a German Lutheran "reform" movement. From Germany it traveled to Sweden, and then into the New World with Swedish immigrants.

After viewing the First Covenant Church turn right onto Bellevue Avenue. Go two blocks, then turn right again onto Olive Street. After four blocks traveling uphill on Olive Street turn left onto Harvard Avenue. On the right side of Harvard is the Seattle Central Community College campus. On the left, after one block, is Capitol Hill Presbyterian. This majestic structure was consecrated in 1924 as the Westminster Presbyterian Church. The current Presbyterian congregation is the result of a merger in 2006 between the building's existing congregation and the Church at the Center, formed in 1993 as a non-traditional "progressive" church using rented space elsewhere in the city.

At Howell Street turn right and use the walkway between buildings at Seattle Central College to reach the starting point for the walk at Broadway and Howell.