Seattle Churches - First Hill

First Hill is appropriately named. It rose above the small shelf of land along Elliott Bay (since augmented with a significant amount of fill into the original bay) where Seattle began in the 1850's. The hill has seen a lot of phases and changes since then. This walk highlights the religious institutions - including the Roman Catholic Seattle University - that cover the northern part of First Hill. The 2.8 mile route has lots of ups and downs, but the payoff comes in the form of panoramic views of downtown Seattle and Elliott Bay to the west.

Our walk begins at the corner of 8th Avenue and James Street. Proceed north on 8th Avenue. To the left is the Trinity Episcopal Parish. The Gothic Revival building was constructed in 1892, replaced a wooden predecessor which burned in the Great Seattle Fire of 1889. The interior burned again in 1902, but the exterior was retained and augmented. More details of the building, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, can be found here. The church is entered through red doors, an Episcopal Church tradition. The parish has remained in the Episcopal mainstream during the various controversies which roiled the national church during the 2000's, and welcomes all Christians to its altar. It's space is also used for a lot of classical music concerts.

After one block on 8th Avenue turn left onto Cherry Street. Go underneath noisy Interstate 5 and then turn right onto 5th Avenue. Go two blocks north on 5th. On the left, at the corner of 5th and Marion, is the former First United Methodist Church. This Beaux Arts style building was opened in 1910. When the Methodists moved to a smaller building to the north in 2001 the building was the subject of a prolonged battle over historic preservation, which ended with the church being spared and "air rights" above going toward permitting of a large office tower right next to it, which has yet to be built. Meanwhile, the building served for a few years as a concert hall before being purchased by the Mars Hill Church, a growing non-denominational congregation, and opening in early 2013. Less than two years later the church closed its doors at this location, and at the end of 2014 dissolved as a result of massive controversy surrounding its founder, Mark Driscoll. The beautiful old church building has a big "for sale" sign on its front, and its future is uncertain once again.

Continue north on Fifth Avenue. At the intersection of Fifth and Madison, to the left, is the striking Seattle Public Library, opened in 2004.

At Spring Street turn right and go east for three blocks, crossing Interstate 5 again. At the corner of Spring and 7th Avenue, to the right, is Seattle's First Presbyterian Church, a "mainstream" Protestant congregation. The current building was constructed in 1962, replacing its 1907 predecessor. The architecture is typical of "modern" church designs of that era. The church's original founder in the 19th century was Dr. George Whitworth, a Washington State pioneer who also founded Whitworth College, originally in Tacoma and now in Spokane.

At 8th Avenue turn left and proceed one block to Seneca Street. At the corner of 8th and Seneca, to the left, is Town Hall Seattle. While the building has served as a public meeting hall and music venue since 1999, as you might guess it is featured on this walk because it used to be a church. The Roman Revival structure was finished in 1922 as the home of the Fourth Church of Christ Scientist, Seattle. The story of the Christian Science church, founded by Mary Baker Eddy and most known for its belief in faith healing instead of medicine, is well-known. Christian Science has suffered major declines in national membership, and many of its very grand edifices have been adapted to new uses around the nation.

At Seneca Street turn left and go back over the I-5 freeway to Sixth Avenue. At Sixth and Seneca is the Plymouth Church, a United Church of Christ (UCC) congregation. As with most UCC congregations, the congregation welcomes all people to its services and events. The UCC is the descendant of the congregational churches of early American New England Puritanism, though it's hard to imagine the Massachusetts Puritans of the 17th century agreeing with the theological positions of the church today. But that's the point of congregational churches - they are mostly autonomous from each other and free to adopt positions on theology, liturgy, and most other church functions that fit the needs of the congregation. The 1910 church building at this location was damaged in the 1965 Olympia Earthquake, and this modern building replaced it.

After viewing Plymouth Church turn around and face the I-5 freeway. To your left will be a trail veering away from Seneca and into Seattle's Freeway Park. The park is built on a massive platform over Interstate 5, and includes features such as this fountain, visible soon after you enter the park. The park opened in 1976. Take the path that goes to the left around the fountain and then curves to the left.

This path leads eventually to the upper entrance of the Washington State Convention Center, a massive facility with its main entrance down below on Pike Street.

At the doors to the convention center entrance turn right to continue through Freeway Park. You will soon come to this whimsical sculpture, which is called the Seattle George Monument, created by noted Seattle public artist Buster Simpson. A weathervane at the top portrays profiles of George Washington and Chief Seattle.

Right beyond the Seattle George Monument, you will see this stairway plunging down and out of Freeway Park. Proceed down the stairway.

At the bottom of the stairway turn left onto 9th Avenue, and after a block you will see this set of long stairs back up the hill to the right. Take the stairway and trudge back up.

At the top of the stairway you will find yourself at the corner of Union and Terry Streets. Walk straight ahead on Union Street - the street veers slightly to the right at Minor Avenue. After three blocks you will see this Mission Revival building at the corner of Union and Summit. It is the Summit School, a former Seattle public school built in 1905, and now home to the private Northwest School. The building is on the National Register of Historic Places. The best façade of this building is actually down Summit Street, to the left.

At Harvard Avenue turn right. Go through a complicated intersection with Seneca Street and continue on Harvard. On your right will be Seattle's First Baptist Church. This monumental Gothic revival structure was completed in 1912. First Baptist is definitely a part of America's "liberal" Baptist tradition - it welcomes all potential parishioners regardless of, among other things, their sexual orientation, and is also proud of its history as a "peace" church.

At Madison Street turn left, and you will be soon entering the campus of Seattle University, a Roman Catholic school administered by the Jesuits. The first campus building on view is the administration building on the right, with a distinctive bell tower. The building includes a small chapel.

After passing the administration building you will see a pedestrian entrance onto the campus to the right. Take the entrance, and then quickly take the campus driveway to the left, which skirts the Union Green. At the east end of the green space take a right. On your left is the Chapel of St. Ignatius. This innovative worship space, with its striking modern design, was dedicated in 1997.

The chapel is open during most daylight hours, so go ahead and respectfully view the interior spaces as well, which also exemplify the striking modern design. The lawn area, with a single row of trees to the south of the Chapel, is known as the "Thinking Field," and is part of the overall design concept for the chapel.

Continue to the south end of the campus green and then past the Albers School of Business, then turn right. Continue on the campus roadway past the Quad, then turn left. In the middle of the Quad is this striking fountain, designed by famous artist George Tsutakawa. The plaza and the fountain date from the late 1980's. For sports fans, Seattle University is best known for the college career of this famous NBA player.

Continue past the quad, and then another block along the campus driveway. Turn right after you pass this structure which is the Arrupe Jesuit House. This building serves as home to many of the Jesuit priests that work on campus. It contains 16 bedrooms and various offices.

Continue on the campus driveway to the intersection of Broadway and Cherry Street. Continue straight on Cherry and then turn right onto Minor Avenue. To your right is the massive Swedish Medical Center complex, located here since 1912 (though obviously not in these buildings). The Swedish Hospital complex is one of three on First Hill, which is sometimes known as "Pill Hill."

Continue on Minor Avenue to Marion Street, then turn left. After two blocks, at the corner of Terry Avenue and Marion, to the right is the Chancery Building, so named because it was the administrative headquarters for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Seattle. The administration has moved across the street and this building is now the Archdiocese youth and young adult center.

Turn left on Terry Avenue. On your left is O'Dea High School, an all-male Roman Catholic institution with about 400 students. It has been on this site since 1923, and is named for an early 20th century archbishop.

On your right is the imposing St. James Cathedral, spiritual home of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Seattle. Completed in 1907, the cathedral was originally graced with a large dome. However it collapsed under a heavy snowfall in 1916, and was not replaced.

Continue one block on Terry to Columbia Street, then turn right. If you were to continue on Terry you would come to the Frye Art Museum, in a distinctive modern structure. After one block on Columbia turn left onto Ninth Avenue. At the corner of 9th and Columbia is Skyline at First Hill, a luxurious new (opened in 2009) retirement community owned and managed by Presbyterian Retirement Communities Northwest, a non-profit organization affiliated with Seattle's Presbyterian churches.


Proceed two blocks on Ninth Avenue to James Street, enjoying (especially on a sunny day) the panoramic views downhill to the west of downtown Seattle and Elliott Bay. Turn right on James Street, and after one block you will be back to the starting point of this walk.

Seattle - Portage Bay

Seattle is unparalleled among major American cities for the abundance and beauty of its waterfront areas. The city has is bounded by water to the west (Puget Sound) and east (Lake Washington), and in addition is bisected by Lake Union and the various aspects of the Lake Washington Ship Canal. This walk will take you along one part of the Lake Washington Ship Canal complex of waterways, Lake Union's Portage Bay. The area is dominated by the University of Washington to the north and a variety of waterfront residences and moorages. This walk is 3.3 miles and is fairly level, with a few mild grade changes.

The walk starting point is the Montlake Playfield, located on the south side of Portage Bay, at the end of 15th Street. The walk starts here because nearby free parking is available, unlike along the north side of Portage Bay on or near the University of Washington campus, and also because you can enjoy the waterfront at this point, the view perhaps marred by the SR 520 freeway on a bridge over an arm of Portage Bay. to a pontoon bridge across Lake Washington.

Go along a pathway adjacent to the water to the east (right). Eventually the path will curve away from the water. Then make a sharp left onto this pathway, which leaves the Montlake Playfield toward the Montlake bridge across Portage Bay. Follow the pathway under the SR 520 freeway.

Eventually the pathway merges with a sidewalk on the west side of Montlake Avenue. On your left you will see the large campus of the Northwest Fisheries Science Center, operated by the federal government. After a couple of blocks on Montlake you will use the Montlake Bridge to cross to the north side of Portage Bay. The bridge was constructed in 1925 in a gothic style designed to be in harmony with the University of Washington campus to the north. The bridge can be raised to allow for marine traffic below because it is part of the Lake Washington Ship Canal, the ambitious 1911 maritime project connecting Lake Washington to the Puget Sound. After crossing the bridge you will get a glimpse off to the right of Husky Stadium, home to the University of Washington's football team.

Once you cross the bridge leave the roadway via a trail to the left. At a fork in the path keep to the left and head down the grassy slope toward the water.

To the right you will see a portion of the  University of Washington Medical Center, which has grown from small beginnings in 1959 to become a Pacific Northwest institution. The Medical Center itself is only a small part of the massive University of Washington campus, over 700 acres in size and home to 45,000 undergraduate and graduate students.

Soon you will be at the water's edge. The water in question is the Montlake Cut, connecting Portage Bay on Lake Union with Lake Washington. As the name of Portage Bay suggests, the site of the cut was used by Native Americans to portage boats from Lake Washington to Lake Union. The simple portage was replaced by this waterway, which lowered the level of Lake Washington by nine feet and changed the lake's outlet from its southern end to this point. Today the cut is not used much by  commercial shipping - the most notable users of these waters are now associated with the University of Washington.

Continue along the edge of Portage Bay and enjoy the view across the water.

On your right you will pass the University of Washington Oceanography building, constructed in 1930. The Oceanography department has long outgrown this structure and also occupies two other large buildings along the waterfront. As you continue along the waterfront your path will be blocked by one of the other Oceanography buildings, a more modern behemoth.

At this point turn right and head away from the bay on San Juan Road. Directly ahead is the Magnuson Health Sciences Center. This massive building, at 533,000 square feet, is reputed to be the largest university building in the United States. It is part of the University of Washington medical school complex and is named for long-time U.S. Congressman and Senator Warren Magnuson, who used his seniority to funnel large amounts of federal largesse into the state. If you are visiting at the right time of year you will also enjoy the beautiful cherry blossoms on the trees lining the roadway.

San Juan Road ends at Columbia Road, where you will turn left. Follow Columbia Road as it curves to the right and becomes 15th Street. Monumental university science buildings will be on your right, and views across Portage Bay and its boat marinas will be on your left.

Cross busy Pacific Avenue. On your right is the Physics and Astronomy building, constructed in 1994.

Immediately after crossing Pacific Avenue you will come to the Burke-Gilman trail. Turn left on the trail. This 27-mile paved bike and walking path goes from Lake Union all the way to the suburb of Bothell to the northeast. The route was originally constructed as a rail line in the 1880s. Continue on the trail, watching for speeding cyclists. On your left is Mercer Court, a massive apartment complex for University of Washington graduate students that opened in 2013.

Continue on the Burke-Gilman Trail to the University Bridge over Lake Union. Under the bridge is the Wall of Death, an art installation intended as a tribute to auto, cyclist, and skateboarder stunts. However the work had to be modified in 2008 to prevent its actual stunt use by skateboarders.

Across from the Wall of Death, to the right, are these stairs up to the deck of the University Bridge. Take the stairs and start across Lake Union on the bridge - you will be on the east side of the structure. The bridge dates from 1919 and is a double-leaf bascule crossing (aka a "drawbridge).

As you head across the bridge, to the west you will see the massive Ship Canal Bridge that carries Interstate 5 over Lake Union and Portage Bay. This double-decker was opened in 1962, and soars 182 feet above the water - there is no need for a swing or draw opening to let boats by! The lower deck is exclusively devoted to rush hour express lanes in the morning and evening.

Looking to the northeast, you will see the north side of Portage Bay with many boat docks and marine facilities, and beyond is the University of Washington campus.

To the southeast on the south side of Portage Bay the scene consists of residences hanging over the water (or at least their boat hangars) and houseboat moorages that are floating on the bay.

When you reach the south end of the University Bridge turn left and immediately turn left again. Cross the parking lot to a short pathway that puts you on Portage Place, the street closest to the bay. Turn right on Portage Place. Enjoy the view of the bay to the left between the waterfront homes, which vary greatly in age, size, and design. Portage Bay Place ends in a stairway going up a hill and then veering right to Allison Street. Once on Allison Street go forward to Fuhrman Avenue, where you will turn left.

Fuhrman Avenue curves to the left and becomes Boyer Avenue, following the path of the bay (although there are residences between the street and the bay). Eventually you will pass next to the massive Queen City Yacht Club, with a variety of large pleasure boats under its covered moorages.

After the Queen City Yacht Club you will pass under a bridge for the SR 520 freeway. Just a mile or so to the east this freeway uses the Evergreen Point floating bridge to cross Lake Washington over to Bellevue and Redmond. The freeway and bridge were opened in 1963. Continue on Boyer Avenue to 15th Avenue where you will turn left and return to your starting point at the Montlake Playfield.

Seattle Religious Institutions - Capitol Hill

Capitol Hill is an old and very interesting Seattle neighborhood, located on the heights above downtown Seattle, although perhaps it wasn't originally "above" downtown before the amazing (by today's environmental standards) Denny Regrade was perpetrated on land between Capitol Hill and Puget Sound in the early 20th century. Capitol Hill was originally named in 1901 by a real estate developer who wanted the state capitol to move to Seattle from Olympia. At one point known locally as "Catholic Hill," it has a diverse religious history epitomized by this tour of religious structures in the southern portion of the neighborhood. The walk is 2.7 miles and has a lot of terrain changes.

The walk starts at the intersection of Broadway and Howell At this time you will need to find nearby available street parking to start the walk here, but soon this location will be on the south edge of the Capitol Hill Subway Station, part of an extension of Seattle's light rail line north from downtown to the University of Washington. The tracks visible in the picture will be the route for another new rail line to this location, the Seattle First Hill Streetcar, set to open later this year.

From the intersection of Broadway and Howell proceed east one block to Nagle Street, and then enter Cal Anderson Park, Continue straight across the park. Formerly Lincoln Park, it was renamed in honor of Washington State's first openly gay state legislator. There is an interesting fountain that you will pass on your left.

After crossing Cal Anderson Park you will reach 11th Avenue, where you will cross the street and turn right. On the corner of 11th and Howell is the German United Church of Christ, in this location since 1909. It is the last church in the Pacific Northwest to conduct its services in the German language. The building is, in the architecturally Spartan mode of congregational churches generally.

Continuing south on 11th Avenue, right beyond the German Congregational Church is the Central Lutheran Church parish house, providing extra facilities for the Central Lutheran parish located one building beyond on 11th. Of note is the banner, which refers to a successful campaign in the City of Seattle to raise the minimum wage to $15. It is a sign of the social and moral priorities of the Central Lutheran congregation.

At the corner of 11th and Olive, to the left, is the Central Lutheran Church, clearly from its website one of the more "liberal" Lutheran congregations. The congregation emphasizes issues of social justice and inclusivity in its religious program. While the congregation dates from 1890, this beautiful brick building was constructed in 1932.

At Central Lutheran turn left onto Olive Street. Go two blocks to 13th Avenue, then turn left. On the right side of the street is St. Nicholas Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox congregation. The congregation was founded in 1932 by Russian emigres escaping, as the church's website puts it, "the scourge of Bolshevism." They were also escaping from the established Russian Orthodox church in Seattle, St. Spiridon, for reasons which have been obscured by the passing decades. The cathedral, built in 1937, is dedicated to St. Nicholas of Myra, the religious inspiration for today's thoroughly secular Santa Claus. The building is also dedicated to the "martyred Tsar Nicholas II, his Royal Family and all the Russian soldiers and people who died defending their faith, tsar and country." (from the Cathedral's website) The onion domes are typical of Russian Orthodox churches in Russia and around the world. 

After one block on 13th turn right onto Howell Street. On the left, at the corner of 13th and Howell, is the Assumption Greek Church. This Greek Orthodox congregation is part of a different national church from the Russian Orthodox down the block, but share the same Eastern Orthodox theology, which is well-summarized here. This congregation split from the older St. Demetrios Greek Orthodox church, located several miles to the north, in 1939. This particular building's history is unclear, but it is obviously much more modern than its Russian Orthodox neighbor St. Nicholas.

Continue three blocks east on Howell Street, then turn left onto 16th Avenue. At the corner of Howell and 16th is a small city park. Beyond the park, on the left, is the monumental 1909 First Church of Christ, Scientist, Seattle. The controversial church, founded by Mary Baker Eddy and best known for its belief in faith-healing, was a booming and well-funded organization in the early 20th century. However the number of congregations have declined by almost half in the U.S. in the past half-century, and this building was sold to a housing developer in 2006. It is now a condominium development titled "The Sanctuary." After some problems related to the Great Recession, the 12 condominiums are apparently sold and occupied.

Continue on 16th Avenue another block to John Street. On the left is the Group Health Hospital Campus, while on the right is the former Capitol Hill United Methodist Church building, constructed in 1906. In 1991 the Methodists vacated the building, and its fate was uncertain. However instead of being torn down it has been repurposed as a pretty cool office building for Catalysis, a "digital marketing" firm working with Seattle's (and the world's) tech businesses.

Turn right from 16th onto John Street. Across the street from Catalysis is a striking apartment building, the Anhalt Apartments. This English Tudor style building was designed and built by noted Seattle residential builder Frederick Anhalt. After 40 years in service as offices for the hospital across the street, it was repurposed as an apartment building again in 2009.

After one block on John Street turn right on 17th Avenue, and then after one block on 17th turn left onto Denny Way. After one block on Denny turn right onto 18th Avenue. On the left is this large old mansion which now serves as the headquarters of Save Seattle, a ministry of the Seattle Union Gospel Mission. The program offers year-long missions for young adults to serve the needy in the Seattle area and also enjoy life in the Pacific Northwest.

After one block on 18th turn left onto Howell, and then after one block turn right onto 19th Avenue. Once you cross busy Madison Street look up to see that 19th Avenue is also Rev. Dr. S. McKinney Avenue. Samuel McKinney was the pastor of the Mt. Zion Baptist Church for 40 years and was a major leader of the African-American community in Seattle.

Continue on 19th Street and on your left is the Rev. McKinney's church, Mt. Zion Baptist. It is the oldest and largest African-American congregation in the State of Washington. It has been located on this site since 1920, although the building underwent a major "African-style" redesign in the 1970's. The "black churches" of the United States have a long tradition of serving the spiritual needs of African-Americans, at first by necessity, due to segregation as strong in Christian denominations as it was in the rest of American society, but now by tradition and perhaps choice.

Continue on 19th Avenue. To the right is Peace for the Streets, This organization ministers to homeless youth in the Seattle area. While the group's website doesn't have any religious messages other sources indicate that it is in some sort of partnership with Mt. Zion Baptist Church across the street. Under any auspices, it appears to be a worthy organization with a worthy mission.

After two blocks on 19th Avenue you will see a stairway heading up a short hill to the right. Take the stairway and once at the top continue forward. You will be on Pike Street. Continue for three blocks, passing a playground and school on the left, and at the corner of 16th and Pike is Temple de Hirsch Sinai. This large established congregation serves Seattle's reform Judaism community - the most "liberal" of the three main strands of the Jewish faith in the U.S. The large temple facility, taking up an entire city block, was completed in 1960. As the result of a merger with a Bellevue congregation in 1971 the congregation has a second temple in that city.

Continue on Pike Street to Madison Street, which cuts diagonally across the street grid in this area. Veer slightly left on Madison to the stop light at 14th Avenue, which you will use to cross Madison. Then cross Pike to the north side of the street. Halfway up the block is another long-time (since 1886) Seattle African-American congregation, the First AME Church. The African Methodist Church in the United States was founded in 1816, by Methodists alienated by segregation and discrimination they suffered at the hands of established Methodist congregations in the Northeast. The building the congregation occupies was constructed in 1912.

Walk back to Pike Street and turn right. At the corner of 13th and Pike is the Elysian Brewing Company. Founded at this location in 1995, beer production now happens south of downtown Seattle. But you can duck in here and taste the brews, either now or by returning at the end of the walk.

Pike Street has some interesting sights as you continue west. This colorful mural on the left is indecipherable unless you happen to know that Closed Knuckle Jaw is a band, and "The Grizzled Mighty" is one of their albums.

Continue along bustling Pike Street to Summit Avenue. On the right, at the corner of Summit and Pike, is the Summit(on E. Pike), a meeting hall operated by the adjacent First Covenant Church. While the nondescript building is open for rental to any private party, it also hosts the Breakfast Club, a ministry of the church that provides meals for homeless and low-income Seattle residents.

Continuing on Pike Street, on the right side of the street at Bellevue Avenue is the First Covenant Church. The church building was consecrated as the Swedish Tabernacle in 1909. The congregation began in 1889 as the Swedish Christian Mission Church, not changing its name until the mid-20th century, by which time the Swedish character of the congregation had become diluted. The congregation belongs to the national Evangelical Covenant Church, formed in 1885 with roots in the Pietist movement that started in the 18th century as a German Lutheran "reform" movement. From Germany it traveled to Sweden, and then into the New World with Swedish immigrants.

After viewing the First Covenant Church turn right onto Bellevue Avenue. Go two blocks, then turn right again onto Olive Street. After four blocks traveling uphill on Olive Street turn left onto Harvard Avenue. On the right side of Harvard is the Seattle Central Community College campus. On the left, after one block, is Capitol Hill Presbyterian. This majestic structure was consecrated in 1924 as the Westminster Presbyterian Church. The current Presbyterian congregation is the result of a merger in 2006 between the building's existing congregation and the Church at the Center, formed in 1993 as a non-traditional "progressive" church using rented space elsewhere in the city.

At Howell Street turn right and use the walkway between buildings at Seattle Central College to reach the starting point for the walk at Broadway and Howell.