Monmouth

Monmouth is a lesser known Willamette Valley small city. It is not located on I-5, or on any main road to the Oregon Coast or to the Cascades. But it is a nice place to walk around, and it looks like a nice place to call home as well. Most notably, Monmouth is home to Western Oregon University, formerly the state's teacher's college, with 6,000 students. This walk goes through the university campus, along the well-preserved main street, and through some older historic neighborhoods. The walk is 2.6 miles long, and is flat.

The walk starts at the intersection of Highway 99W and the Monmouth-Independence Highway, the auto-oriented center of town, at a Burgerville. This Oregon fast-food chain (although headquartered in Vancouver, Washington) is a significant cut above the national competition, and you will pay a premium over the competition's prices to enjoy its food. It would be interesting to see future competition between Burgerville and In-n-out Burgers, should the latter chain ever make its way form a certain state to the south into the northern regions of Oregon.

From Burgerville head east on the Independence-Monmouth Highway (Independence, subject of another walk on this blog, bounds Monmouth on the east), first crossing the street to the left side. On the left are several early 20th century historic residences.

Continue on Independence-Monmouth Highway to Heffey Street, then turn left. On the corner is this old house that is in need of some at least cosmetic repair. A sign that there are still opportunities to make major contributions to the older sections of Monmouth by rehabbing old houses.

At Jackson Street turn left. The next several blocks have more historic homes, including this example of a Queen Anne vernacular style on the left.

Continue to Highway 99W. To the left is another Oregon icon (although it actually has outlets in six states), Dutch Brothers coffee. This privately-owned chain was started in 1992 by two brothers in Grants Pass, Oregon, and now has over 200 outlets. Carefully cross Highway 99W and continue west.

Once across Highway 99W continue on Jackson Street. At the corner of Jackson and Ecols, on the left, is the Ackerman House. Constructed in 1911, this bungalow-style residence was the home of John Ackerman, president of Oregon Norman School (now Western Oregon University) from 1911 to 1920.

Continue two more blocks on Jackson Street. At the corner of Jackson and Knox, to the right, is the Howell House. Built in 1891, this Eastlake Stick Style Home served for many years as a boarding house for Western Oregon University students. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Turn right onto Knox St. After one block you will see this large house on the right, and behind it is the edge of the Western Oregon University campus. The building visible in the background is Rice Auditorium, the main performing arts center on campus.

Continue north on Knox Street until it tees into Winegar Avenue. At the intersection you will see a sign that is normal around American college campuses - a "residential parking zone" sign. Students and their cars are universally unwelcome on nearby residential streets, and Monmouth is apparently no exception.

Turn left onto Winegar Avenue and follow the street as it curves. The name changes back to Knox Street after the curve. The street is lined by another common aspect of neighborhoods around American college campuses - well-used apartment buildings housing students. What differentiates this street is its median. The center street area is landscaped as a "xeriscape," which is defined as landscaping requiring little or no irrigation. A xeriscape in Oregon is going to look quite different from (and much more lush than) a xeriscape in Arizona or Nevada, but it is commendable for the city to authorize a project that doesn't need irrigation in the center median of this street.

At Gentle Street turn left. To the right is a parking lot and beyond the lot is the Gentle House. The house was constructed in 1880. Both the structure and its grounds were donated by the Gentle family to Western Oregon University, which makes the house available for public functions.

Gentle Avenue tees into Monmouth Avenue. Turn left onto Monmouth and enter the Western Oregon University campus. The school was founded in 1856 as a private Christian college. It became Oregon Normal School, a state college, in 1882. After a brief closure for lack of funds in 1909 it reopened in 1911. In 1939 it became Oregon Teacher's College. In 1981, to reflect the growing curriculum it became Western Oregon State College, and was upgraded to University status in 1997. The 156-acre campus now serves approximately 6,000 students.

Continue along Monmouth Street. Painted onto the sidewalks are these large paw prints. The university's sports teams are the Western Oregon Wolves.

On the right is the Werner University Center, the hub of campus activity. Originally built in 1960, it has seen significant remodeling and expansion over the years to serve the growing student population.

After crossing Church Street, on the right is Todd Hall, originally constructed in 1912. It was the first dormitory on campus, exclusively for women. Now it serves as the location of the school's Teaching Research Institute. It reportedly hosts the ghost of it's namesake, Jessica Todd.

Next on the right is Campbell Hall, which was originally built in 1871 but extensively remodeled since. One of the remodelings was necessary after the 1962 Columbus Day Windstorm blew off its bell tower. In front of Campbell Hall is a 125-foot tall Sequoia tree, planted in 1887.

On the left, across from Campbell Hall, is the university's Instructional Technology Center. (In case you haven't figured it out, Western Oregon University still heavily emphasizes education and training of elementary and secondary school teachers). The building was originally constructed in 1915.

At the edge of the campus, at the corner of Jackson and Monmouth Streets to the left, is the former Community Evangelical Church. Originally constructed in 1891, it was moved to this site in 1922 on wooden rollers. The steeple was another victim of the 1962 Columbus Day Windstorm. The building is now occupied by the non-denominational Heart to Heart Church, which doesn't have a website but does have a Facebook Page.


Across from the church is West House. This attractive colonial structure was built in 1924. It became the school's male dormitory in 1937 (as is fitting for a mid-20th century teacher's college, the men's dorm was smaller than the women's dorm!). It now houses two of the university's academic departments.

Turn right onto Jackson Street. After one block you will see McArthur Stadium to the right, home to the Western Oregon Wolves football team. The university is part of the Great Northwest Athletic Conference in NCAA Division II, and is not in the same conference as nearby Willamette or Linfield Colleges. The stadium was built in 1980, replacing wooden Memorial Stadium. The previous stadium burned to the ground in 1979, according to some sources in "spectacular fashion."

After two blocks on Jackson turn left onto Whitman and then left again onto Main Street. After 1 1/2 blocks St. Hilda's Episcopal Church, housed in this quaint structure, will be seen on the right. The building was constructed in 1935.

Continue west on Main Street, which is indeed Monmouth's traditional "main street," On the right is the Monmouth City Hall. The city's staff is apparently packed into this nondescript building, and the city is considering options for expansion. Monmouth is notable for incorporation in 1856 as a "dry" city, and the city remained liquor free (or at least liquor store free) until voters finally changed the city charter in 2002.

After crossing Warren Street you will see Main Street Park on your left, a traditional looking central park square with a pretty gazebo. In front of the park is this giant flagpole, proudly flying the American, Oregon, and Monmouth city flags.

On the right side of the street, across from Main Street Park, is the M.I. (Monmouth Improvement Company) building. The structure, built in an Italianate style, has been on this site since 1902.

Continue along Main Street, which has several early 20th century commercial structures. Most notable is this building at the corner of Main and Broad Streets. It is known as the Polk County Bank Building. It was constructed in 1889 and has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Continue another three blocks along Main Street to the starting point of the walk, Burgerville.

Corvallis - downtown

There are two major university towns in Oregon, and we can't ignore lovely Corvallis for much longer. Home to Oregon State University, the city looks like a nice place to live, and it is certainly a nice place to visit. Most visitors probably go to the campus, but Corvallis' central area is worthy of exploration too. This walk will take you through downtown, by some beautiful historic homes, and along the city's Willamette River pathway. The walk is 2.7 miles in length, on flat terrain.

The walk starts at the north end of Riverfront Commemorative Park, which features a trail along much of the city's Willamette River frontage. There are parking areas near the intersection of First Street and Tyler Avenue. Navigating the central part of Corvallis is easy if you know the chronological order of early U.S. Presidents (but skipping John Quincy Adams, who shares the same last name as his father, the 2nd President, and whose inclusion into a similar street name system in Oregon City seems awkward).

Head south along the Riverfront trail. Soon you will see these two bridges over the Willamette River to the left. The first is the unexceptional Harrison Street bridge, which carries westbound traffic into Corvallis. The second is the Van Buren Street bridge, which carries eastbound traffic out of Corvallis. It was built in 1913 and is the third oldest existing bridge crossing of the Willamette. It replaced a ferry which operated on this site starting in 1860. The bridge has a swing span, used in its early years to allow the passage of riverboat traffic. However the last opening of the bridge swing span occurred in 1960. Regular river commerce requiring the bridge to swing open had ceased by the late 1920's. There have been studies regarding the replacement of this bridge and its use for non-vehicular traffic or its demolition, but for now it remains a vital traffic artery over the river.

Continuing on the riverfront walkway, three blocks south of the Van Buren Bridge, to the right, is the home of Flat Tail Brewing, one of several microbreweries in Corvallis.

Continue along the riverfront walkway. The walk has nice views of Corvallis' Willamette River frontage. The Willamette saw a lot of steamboat traffic in the late 19th century after the 1873 construction of the Willamette Falls locks in Oregon City downstream. But the railroads' advance into the Willamette Valley provided tough competition for the steamboats, and the advent of paved roads in the early 20th century killed off commercial river traffic entirely. Across the river from Corvallis was the pioneer town of Orleans, which was washed away by the Great Flood of 1862 and never rebuilt.

There are several new multi-story buildings along the riverfront, and this 7-story building at Washington Street, Renaissance on the Riverfront, is the tallest. It has two floors of commercial space topped by five additional floors of condos.

Continuing along the riverfront path, follow the pathway under the Highway 34 bridge. This is a route that, after crossing the Willamette, bypasses downtown Corvallis on its way to the Oregon Coast to the west.

Once under the bridge follow the trail through the natural area along the Willamette River and then to the right along the mouth of the Marys River which joins the Willamette here. The Marys River arises from the west in the Coast Range where its source is near the tallest mountain on the Coast Range, Mary's Peak, a little over 4,000 feet in elevation.

As the trail continues looping to the right you will once again cross under the Highway 34 bridge, past this skate park. Noisy skate parks around the state seem to often be located in areas already noisy, such as under state highway bridges.

Continue past the skate park straight ahead onto Second Street, and then head north for one block. But before reaching Second Street and to the right you will see this striking sculpture of a bird. It is one of many such sculptures along the Corvallis riverfront and throughout downtown.

After proceeding one block on Second Street turn left onto Western Avenue. Cross busy Third and Fourth Streets at the signal light. After crossing Fourth Street you will be entering the city's Avery-Helm Historic District. The district, established in 2000, is clearly an attempt to revitalize a formerly neglected part of town, and it holds many interesting historic residences. At Fifth Street turn right. While many of the old houses remaining in pre-World War II historic neighborhoods are much larger, it is interesting to see a smaller, less architecturally ornate home such as this one on the right side of Fifth Street, built in 1905, because in older historic neighborhoods many of these smaller houses have not survived over the years.

After one block on Fifth Street turn left onto Washington Avenue. After one block you will cross Sixth Street, which contains the railroad tracks of the Portland and Western Railway. This book, which may be in your local library, will provide historical pictures and the history of this and other former Southern Pacific lines in Oregon. This line also has the distinction of being a small part of what was once a grandiose scheme for a transcontinental railway from Newport on the Oregon Coast all the way to Chicago! It still goes to Toledo on Yaquina Bay, near Newport, but the railroad only got as far as Idanha on its way to the Santiam Pass near Sisters, Oregon before the dream was squashed by financial realities.

Continue one block on Washington to Seventh Street. On your left is the Willamette Valley and Coast Railway freight depot, originally built in 1887, and moved twice before landing on this site in 1927. It is the oldest two-story wood-frame railroad depot in Oregon. The building is on the National Register of Historic Places.

Continue one block further on Washington Avenue to Eighth Street. On the left are two more structures on the National Register of Historic Places, the Oregon State University Poultry House and Incubator House. Both buildings were constructed on other parts of the campus in the early 20th century, and the story of how they were found, moved to this site, and refurbished, is quite interesting. Note that you are now on the edge of the Oregon State University campus - a large newer dormitory building is in the background of this picture. The campus will be the subject of another walking tour.

At Eighth Street turn right. After one block turn right again onto Adams Avenue. Go forward one block. At the corner of Adams and Seventh is the Whiteside House, built in 1927, on the National Register of Historic Places. The Whiteside House is thought to be the only example in Corvallis of a residential architectural style called the airplane bungalow, so named because the pop-up single-room second story on these homes supposedly resembled the cockpit of a 1920's airplane.

Turn left onto Seventh and go two blocks to Madison Avenue. On your left is the Corvallis Arts Center, which has been in this location since 1961. However, the building, constructed in a Carpenter Gothic style, was built in 1889 as the Good Samaritan Episcopal Church. It is on the National Register of Historic Places.

To the right at the intersection of 7th and Madison is the George R. Farra House, a mansion built in 1903. It is also on the National Register of Historic Places. Both the Farra Residence and the Corvallis Arts Center front onto Corvallis Central Park, located on the other side of the street.

Next to the Farra House on the south side of Madison is the First Christian Church of Corvallis, a member of the National Disciples of Christ denomination. The building was completed in 1925 in a neo-Classical architectural style.

Turn left on Madison Avenue to go around Central Park. Next to the Arts Center is this building, now a mortuary, that was constructed in 1917 as the Corvallis First Congregational Church. This neo-Classical structure is also on the National Register of Historic Places.

At Eighth Street turn right and continue around the edge of the park. To your left is the Corvallis First Presbyterian Church. The sanctuary was constructed in 1910 and the educational hall was finished in 1928.

Turn right again on Monroe and continue along the edge of Central Park. The 3.5 acre square is a gathering spot for band concerts at its gazebo.

On the left side of Monroe, across from the park, is the Corvallis-Benton County Public Library. This large building was originally designed by noted Portland architect Pietro Belluschi in 1932. It had extensive additions in 1965 and 1992.

Continue on Monroe Avenue across Sixth Street and the railroad tracks again. Continue to Fifth Street. On the left is the Benton County Courthouse, on the National Register of Historic Places. It was constructed in 1889. Its architectural style is described as Italianate. It was extensively remodeled in 1976 to serve courthouse needs in the modern era.

Continue to Fourth Street, which is part of a one-way couplet with Third Street that handles State Highway 99W through traffic. On the right corner is the Benton Hotel, built in 1925. This building, also on the National Register of Historic Places, has been converted to shops on the first floor and apartments above. By the way, Benton County was named for this historic pre-civil war American politician.

Continue on Monroe to Third Street, then turn right. After one block turn left onto Madison Avenue, and then after one block on Madison turn left onto Second Street. You are now in the heart of old downtown Corvallis. The street sculptures continue throughout downtown, most notably several of these items. I have no idea what they are supposed to represent.

At the corner of Madison and Second is the Corvallis Hotel, another historic lodging structure. This brick building was finished in 1927.

Continue north on Second Street. On your right is the Majestic Theatre. This venue, constructed in 1913 as a vaudeville house, now hosts local theater productions and musical events.

Next to the Majestic Theater, at the corner of Second and Monroe, is the Julian Hotel, originally constructed in 1893 with fireproof brick construction. It now provides apartments for low-income renters.

At Jackson Street turn right toward the riverfront. On the right is the home of Sky High Brewing, the second of the downtown Corvallis micro-breweries. The third brewery, Block 15 Brewing, is located at the corner of Third and Jefferson only one block from the walk pathway (if you want to sample local beers at all three spots).

After reaching the riverfront turn left and head back up the riverfront path for three blocks to your starting point at First Street and Tyler Avenue.